The Fashion Professorship aims to develop critical theories and practices in order to explore, better understand, and rethink the cracks in the fashion system and the role that fashion plays – and could potentially play – in relation to urgent socio-cultural, environmental and political developments in contemporary society.
An important part of the mission of the Fashion Professorship is to build an interdisciplinary research community with stakeholders in the field to research the changing values and meanings of fashion collectively, and to explore how to move forward. The vision of the Fashion Professorship is a ‘living’ process and will continue to take shape through the interaction between all researchers and partners involved. The development and realisation of the vision can only flourish when it is first and foremost a shared vision that is lived by the community.
When focusing on its main research themes and pressing issues in society, the Fashion Professorship will regularly also transcend the discipline of fashion. The current research themes focus on moving towards (1) Alternative Systems, aiming to create and affirm engaged alternative approaches, systems, vocabularies and strategies, using fashion as a tool for systemic change and transformation. Human Values (2) is the research theme that focuses on redefining the value systems from which we work, live, and engage with each other and with the material resources of the earth, highlighting fashion’s human dimension. And (3) New Materialism is a different way of engaging with fashion’s materials and materialities, proposing a new materialist aesthetics. This third research theme focuses on fashion as a second skin – its relation to physical bodies and the senses – and highlights the material agency of fashion objects and underline the importance of ‘living materials’ for a more resilient future.
In January 2017, Daniëlle Bruggeman was appointed as Professor of Fashion at ArtEZ University of the Arts in Arnhem, the Netherlands. She is a is a cultural theorist, specialized in fashion and identity. She teaches at both the MA Fashion Strategy and the MA Fashion Design at ArtEZ, and leads the Centre of Expertise Future Makers in collaboration with dr. Jeroen van den Eijnde. Daniëlle Bruggeman holds a PhD in Cultural Studies, which was part of the first large-scale interdisciplinary research project on fashion in the Netherlands, ‘Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World’ (2010-2014) at Radboud University in Nijmegen, funded by the Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research. She has been a visiting scholar at Parsons, the New School for Design (NYC), and at London College of Fashion. She has published on topics like the fluid, performative and embodied dimensions of identity, (Dutch) fashion photography, and fashion as a new materialist aesthetics. Her current research interests include exploring more engaged approaches, vocabularies and strategies, using fashion as a tool for systemic change and societal transformation. On April 25, 2018, Daniëlle Bruggeman gave her inaugural lecture and presented the accompanying publication Dissolving the Ego of Fashion: Engaging with Human Matters (published by ArtEZ Press).
The Fashion Professorship at ArtEZ was launched in 2002. Professor José Teunissen was the first Professor in the Netherlands to conduct fashion research and to theorize fashion as a cultural phenomenon. To investigate pressing issues in (Dutch) fashion, the Fashion Professorship initiated several large-scale interdisciplinary research projects, such as ‘Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World’ (2008-2014) and ‘crafting Wearables’ (2013-2018) in collaboration with Professor Anneke Smelik of Radboud University and funded by NWO (Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research). All research conducted by the Fashion Professorship resulted in international publications and exhibitions.
Since 2012, the professorship has been leading CLICKNL’s research agenda for fashion and textiles, in which a strong network of researchers, educational institutes and companies has been created. In 2015, together with dr. Jeroen van den Eijnde’s E| |scape Professorship, the Centre of Expertise Future Makers was initiated, which focuses on the development and application of new materials and manufacturing processes in fashion and design. In the meantime, this organisation has more than a million euros’ worth of research projects in its portfolio.