New Textile Ecosystems (New Texeco)
- Partner(s): Saxion, Hogeschool van Amsterdam, Modint, NL Next Fashon and Textiles, GIST, Stichting TexPlus, Producentenorganisatie Textiel, State of Fashion, Dutch Design Week, Ontwerp Platform Arnhem, Crafts Council Nederland, Modepartners 025
- Financier(s): Regieorgaan SIA SPRONG-subsidie (part of the Dutch Organisation for Scientific Research, NWO)
- Started in: January 2023
The textile sector is one of the biggest polluters worldwide due to its huge water and energy consumption, large-scale CO2 emissions and, above all, a lot of textile waste. In the research group 'New Textile Ecosystems' (abbreviated: NEWTEXECO), ArtEZ, Saxion and the Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences join forces to accelerate the transition - and conduct research - towards a sustainable textile value chain, with design as the main pivot. ArtEZ professors Jeroen van den Eijnde (Professorship Tactical Design) and Daniëlle Bruggeman (professorship Fashion) are initiators of this project
Towards a circular value chain of textiles
As a result of European directives, the textile sector must be fully circular by 2050. To break the spiral of overproduction and consumption of poorly recyclable textile products, NEWTEXECO focuses on a systemic approach to textiles that meets functional and aesthetic requirements for clothing and interiors. Design is central as a pivot in sustainable, circular and regenerative value chains of raw material extraction, production and consumption to (re)use.
Mission and approach
Curious how NEWTEXECO is planning to move towards a cicrular value chain of textiles? A lot of the how and why is in the name: NEWTEXECO is an abbreviation of New Textile Ecosystems.
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New Textile: NEWTEXECO focuses on textiles as a flexible material of fibers and yarns. With this SPRONG subsidy, researchers can search for new (bio)materials that can replace traditional textiles.
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Ecosystems: NEWTEXECO will strengthen existing partnerships and seek out new partnerships. There will be cooperation with other colleges, companies, designers, but also with consumers and manufacturers. New ecosystems of knowledge development and innovation will arise and be strengthened.
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In addition to new knowledge development and textile research, NEWTEXECO will also look at daily practice. Think of the activities, obstacles, and experiences of designers, consumers, and users of textiles. How do we ensure that we design circular "work"? How much "work" does it take for consumers to be informed and lured into sustainable buying behavior, and how does the user "work" to extend the life cycles of textiles?
Activities
As part of the symposium "Ties that Bind," NewTexEco organised a Textile Surgery, a session in which a group of experts examined various garments, analysing how they were made, the materials used, and their cultural significance. The items scrutinised included a leather jacket, a cotton pyjama set by Kallol Datta (designer and interlocutor for State of Fashion 2024), a parka, and a pair of leggings. Under the guidance of Tjeerd Veenhoven (Lecturer in Tactical Design) and José Teunissen (Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences), Paulien Harmsen (Senior Scientist at the Circular Fashion Lab, Wageningen University), Rosalie Sloof (Curator of Fashion and Costume), Tjerre Lucas Bijker (Artistic Researcher), and Kallol Datta shared their sometimes candid opinions.
The Textile Surgery is one of the activities developed within the framework of the Engage4Bio project, funded by the European Union. The Professorship Tactical Design is a partner in this project.
Watch the video to see how the session unfolded:
Stay up to date?
Keep an eye on this project page or take a look at the NEWTEXECO website.
Contact
Would you like more information about this research project? Would you also like to contribute, collaborate or get in touch with the researchers? Feel free to send an email to NEWTEXECO at newtexeco@artez.nl
