For many people, fashion is about clothing. For Maya Gawel, it is also about storytelling. During the master's programme Critical Fashion Practices, she explored the connections between mythology, history and the position of women. In her graduation project, she brings these themes together through garments that literally display stories, images and texts on their surfaces.

Maya is originally from Germany and initially studied Interior Design. During an exchange programme in Barcelona, she discovered that she wanted to work more closely with fashion. Yet her interest was never limited to clothing alone. 'I have always been fascinated by mythical, spiritual and almost supernatural stories. Those themes have been part of my work for years. At first, I mainly used these stories to imagine new worlds. But during this master's programme, I started asking myself where these stories actually come from.'
'What happens when we tell different stories? Not the stories that have blamed women for everything that went wrong for centuries.'
This line of inquiry led her to the history of women. She immersed herself in ancient Western myths, the roles women played within them and the ways women have been represented throughout history. Again and again, her research brought her back to the witch hunts. 'What fascinated me was that many ideas about women that still exist today originate in very old stories. I wanted to understand how those stories emerged and why they have endured for so long.'


At first, Maya explored several themes simultaneously. She looked at mythology, the persecution of women, history, feminist theory and the garments she created from existing materials. It was only later that everything began to connect. 'When I discovered Diana, everything suddenly became much clearer. Diana is a figure from Roman mythology. She is known as a protector of women, nature and people who exist outside established social structures.'
During her research, Maya found that this figure also reappeared in narratives surrounding witchcraft and the persecution of women. 'For me, Diana became a bridge between myth and actual history. On one side, you have centuries-old stories; on the other, the persecution of women during the witch hunts. Once I saw that connection, I knew: this is the story I want to tell.'
'Before that, I saw fashion mainly as a form of self-expression. But then I started to understand how strongly consumption is shaped and directed.'
'My central question became: how can rewriting myths from a feminist perspective change the position of women? What happens when we tell different stories? Not the stories that blamed women for everything that went wrong for centuries. If you look at stories such as Adam and Eve, you can see how deeply these ideas are embedded in our culture. I became curious about what our society might look like if humanity’s first great mistake had not been attributed to a woman.'



This search for deeper understanding was exactly why Maya chose the master's programme Critical Fashion Practices. During her bachelor's studies, she had already worked on projects focused on clothing repair and alternatives to ownership, such as a clothing library. However, she wanted to look beyond materials and production processes. 'I wanted to understand what is going wrong at a systemic level. Why do we produce so much? Why do we consume so much? What ideas are driving these behaviours? I was looking for the theories and systems behind the fashion industry.'
One particularly significant moment during the programme came when Maya watched a documentary about the rise of consumer society after the Second World War. 'Before that, I saw fashion mainly as a form of self-expression. But then I started to understand how strongly consumption is shaped and directed. Why would someone need more than one pair of jeans if one pair is enough? I found questions like that fascinating.'
This critical perspective is also reflected in the work of other students within the programme. Not everyone designs clothing; some write, conduct research or create installations. 'That is exactly what inspires me. We are all looking at the same issues within the fashion industry, but from different perspectives. During presentations, you constantly see connections emerging between one another’s work. Everyone is trying to propose alternatives in their own way.'
'If you understand that many systems were once imagined and constructed, you also realise that they can be reimagined.'
From 3 to 5 July, Maya will present her graduation project during Fray; Unpicking Fashion at Galla Studios in Amsterdam. 'Above all, I hope people become curious when they encounter my work. Curious about history and about the origins of the systems we live within. We can be critical of how things are today, but I also think it is important to understand where these systems come from. If you understand that many systems were once imagined and constructed, you also realise that they can be reimagined.'